Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.